My Tour, My Way: Prince of Wales Fort, National Historic Site
I am about to take you on a virtual tour of the Historic site of Prince of Wales Fort, originally built as a military fortification during the 18th century for the Hudson Bay Company in hopes of protecting their fur trade operations. The PWF would never fire a single shot during its time as well as during its time of surrender in 1782 to the French. A Fort that took 40 years to be completed would fall within a matter of hours. The Prince of Wales Fort is a story that every Canadian should hear, a story that entails vanity, greed, and the struggle to survive while reaching for prosperity. Prince of Wales Fort includes vast destruction caused by war, and devastation caused by disease. For many this is a story about the human existence where the truth is stranger than fiction and where characters who should not be forgotten. The history of the Prince of Wales Fort holds the root of being Canadian.
Since about 1689 with the establishment of the Hudson Bay Company (HBC) there was a look forward north in hopes of increasing trade and profit in Rupertsland as the European demand for fur increased. The first trading post built by the HBC would be built in 1689 however would burn later that same year. The second effort trading post was built in 1717, however the HBC primarily trading partners the Dene and the Cree did not have a good start. Governor James Knight knew that there was a rival between the Dene and Cree and took it upon himself to name Thanadelthur (a young Dene woman) the seeker of peace between the two peoples. She was sent to search for the Dene along with William Scott (another member of the HBC) and a few other men in hopes of establishing a peace agreement between the Dene and Cree. Half way into the journey many of the men began to get sick and would make their way back to York Factory. Thanadelthur told William Scott to give her a couple days and she would find her people and have a peace agreement. And this is what happened, for a few days later she returned to York Factory with a few Dene people. She had managed to persuade the Dene that by having peace with the Cree and trading with the HBC at their new Fort would be beneficial to all. Although Thanadelthur’s story was never self-documented, and the only records of her are from HBC journals, in which she is referred to as “Salve Women” shows the story of not only bravery but also of determination. Unfortunately she would die of an illness at York Factory in 1717, but even today within the history of the HBC her contribution of creating peace between the Dene and Cree has had a long-lasting impact upon both peoples and the HBC.
As we continue our tour we’ll follow along a boardwalk that leads half way up to the Fort. At the halfway mark we’ll come across a commemorative monument for one of many important characters at PWF. This specific character was known as Matonabbee who has received the title of being a memorable Manitoban. Matonabbee was a Chipewyan leader who is mostly remembered for his accompanying Samuel Hearne during his exploration from 1770-72 in search of the Coppermine, as well as being a “middle man” at Prince of Wales Fort between the Dene and the HBC during the fur trade. Unfortunately bound to the fortunes of the fur trade, Matonabbee would commit suicide when the French destroyed the fort in 1782.
Making our way towards the walls of the Prince of Wales Fort we’ll see to our left a number of cannons on the ground. These cannons are the original cannons from the 18th century construction of the Fort. The reason for their being outside the Fort is due to a wall stabilization project currently going on inside the Fort walls. However once completed all 39 cannons will be placed back inside the Fort in their proper spots, this may not be for another 6-7 years unfortunately. There were originally 40 cannons at Prince of Wales Fort however the 40th cannon is in the town of Churchill at the Eskimo Museum. All 40 cannons from Prince of Wales Fort have what is known as a Royal Cipher on the barrel of the cannons. This cipher represents the monarch who reigned at the time the piece was cast.
When the French destroyed the Fort in 1782 they also disabled all 40 cannons at the Fort. One way of disabling the cannons was by breaking off 1 of 2 or both trunnions on the cannon. A trunnion is a supporting cylinder on both sides of the cannon, once broken a cannon is rendered useless as it can no longer be raised and its recoil would be uncontrollable. The supporting wooden carriage would be placed on wooden plants. The mooring rings on the sides of the carriage were used to move the cannon.
As we walk towards the front doors of the Fort we’ll see off to the right an example of 8lbs cannon on a wooden carriage. During the time of construction all forty cannons were mounted within the embrasures along the parapet. The Ramparts were the accessible area on the top of a defensive wall. The cannons were mounted on these ramparts and originally sat on wooden planking. The Parapets were the low defensive wall of stone that concealed and protected troops and weapons.
The front door shows the name of the Fort as well as the dates 1733-1771 (Off Camera). The date 1733 is incorrect, the HBC would authorize the construction of the Fort in 1730 and the first brick would be laid by the first Governor of Prince of Wales Fort Richard Norton in 1731. Norton said that it would take 6-7 years for the Fort to be complete and he would leave an unfinished Fort in 1740. The Fort would take 40 years before finally being completed.
As we walking through the entrance way you’ll notice the structure of am 11m thick wall on both sides. This wall in particular is basically made out of any and all materials that could be found. It was structurally unstable and has had to have numerous repairs. The cobblestone within the entrance way is the original cobblestone that was laid during construction of PWF.
From the entrance you’ll enter the Courtyard. This was originally paved with cobblestones however was covered with gravel in the second phase of re-construction during the 1950s in hopes of protecting the cobblestone. Off to the far left would be the Governors quarters. The last two Governors’ here at PWF were Moses Norton (son of Richard Norton) and Samuel Hearne. Moses Norton came from a higher-class lifestyle in England and wanted to continue that lifestyle at PWF before his arrival he had an Organ shipped from England which he would enjoy during his down time. Samuel Hearne on the other had did not have a high-class lifestyle back home, he was more laid back, easy-going and could relate to a lot of the men working at PWF. He however did have something shipped from England but it was not an Organ, it would be his pet Beaver. Upon the Beavers arrival a pond was constructed.
From there we have the Storehouse which was for trade goods, furs and some food stuffs were stored here. This is where the clerks and factors worked. There use to also be a second floor made of wood which was where the men would sleep. The roof over the quarters was made of flat lead sheets. During the time of surrender the flat lead sheets began to disappear. Different theories state that the French took the sheets for their own use, while other theories state that the local natives took it.
This is one of two powder magazine chambers. Recent archaeological studies have found a red brick path leading to this underground area. The small structure in the middle with an oval shape is said to have been a rolling path for the men to roll the cannon balls rather than having to carry them to the back of the chamber.
Walking into the Stone Masons workshop the first thing I like to point out is the symbol of the stonemason guild which partially covered over by orange lichen, but can still be seen carved into a stone on the inner wall of the workshop. It shows the mason's two principal tools: the square and the compass and a "G" which reflects the Masonic belief that God is the very centre of life. This is the oldest Masonic symbol in Manitoba is here at PWF.
The Masons are taught that the Square is to remind them that they must be "square" in their dealings with all men, i.e., to be honest. The Compass, they are taught, is to teach them to "circumscribe their passions," i.e. to control their desires and to be temperate. As well the Mason is taught that the "G" in the Masonic symbol represents God. Later on, he is told that it also represents "deity." Later still, he is told that it represents "geometry."
Another view of the workshops, we have the Blacksmith shop (closest one in front) was where the armourer and tool maker laboured here. This room has two hearths (fireplaces) and may have been used as a bakery.
Standing in the Stone Mason's workshop, next would be the Coopers and Carpenters workship, then the tailors workshps and finally the blacksmiths shop.
Along the walls of the Fort you’ll notice different markings in the stones. What these markings are is the individual Stone Mason signatures. By marking their "signature" Stone Masons were able to distinguish who did what. Here we have three different “signatures” of three individual Stone Masons. The first l signature resembles a backwards "4", while the second resembles resembles a cross.
As you walk along the ramparts (the second section of the Fort) you'll notice "holes" in the walls. These holes are known as the Parapets, which were a low defensive wall of stone that concealed and protected troops and weapons. The Ramparts were the accessible area on the top of a defensive wall. All forty cannons at the Fort were mounted on these ramparts and orginally sat on wooden planking. During the time of construction, the ramparts plans were modified. Instead of being 20ft wide the plans were changed for them to be 40ft, this was due to cannon fire and the "kickback" they'd have. With only 20ft they would end up falling off the ramparts and possibly injuring someone.
 |
| Rampart |
 |
| Parapet |
The view we have here is of the Hudson Bay, where in 1782 Governor Samuel Hearne was relaxing in his quarters possibly feeding his pet Beaver, when a few of the men from the ramparts called for him. The men noticed three ships coming towards the mouth of the river, probably thinking that they were being brought more supplies. This however would not be the case as Samuel Hearne saw the ships the men were pointing too, he hurried down to his quarters grabbed a white flag and raised it high. Many of the men were probably confused as to what Hearne was doing, but what he saw he would later explain. Hearne saw the three ships and recognized that they were the French. Commander La Perouse had 400-1000 men between the three ships and Hearne knew that his 40 men did not stand a chance. La Perouse would come ashore and escort Hearne and his men into a wooden sloop and send them off to England while he stayed behind and destroyed what he could of Prince of Wales Fort. Upon finishing La Perouse would head to York factory and completely burn York Factory (would later be rebuilt) and then continue on his way. Samuel Hearne would return to the area in 1783, however not to PWF. He would return to the second Fort, Fort Churchill and continue with fur trade operations from there.
In the 1920s, the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada recognized the Fort as being of national significance. The Parks Branch of the Department of the Interior (now Parks Canada) took responsibility for its preservation. Today despite its age the Fort still stands as an important memorial of the French-English rivalry for control of Hudson Bay and its resources.
 |
| July 2011 |
As we leave Prince of Wales Fort we say goodbye to the important characters of men that occupied the Fort. As many have walked we walk, down the long boardwalk that so many have traveled. At the end of my tour I hope that a bit of this Canadian history has touched you in some way.
A special thank you goes out to Mike & Doreen Macri and Sea North Tours. They’ve both been nothing but amazing to work for and had I not been hired I would not have been able to share my love of history with those coming to visit Churchill as well as being able to try my hand at being a Tour Guide.
Thank you again Mike and Doreen.
Comments
Post a Comment